The Beautiful Stourhead in Winter

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru 

Today's adventure on the way home from Bath was to be determined by the weather, if it wasn't going to rain we were heading for Longleat alternatively if it looked like rain we would head to Stourhead. By some miracle Emma woke us after eight telling us we had all slept in and when we looked out the window at breakfast time we realised Stourhead it was.

The drive from Bath in Somerset to Stourhead in Wiltshire took us through such beautiful countryside from the Mendip Hills to the farmlands around Frome and in under an hour we arrived in Stourhead.

Many people continue to ask us why we would possibly come to England in the winter, there seems to be a national preoccupation with the weather. But regardless of the intermittent rain England is beautiful in winter, we can always get a table for lunch and we don't have to share theses special places with hoards of people. As you can see from the lovely views of Stourhead (above) even rainy days have lovely periods of blue sky.

The walk from the visitor centre over to the main house took us first through some of the kitchen gardens and past greenhouses. The kids caught sight of a tunnel created out of bent canes and they were off. It was so lovely to see their enthusiasm, it was obvious they had some energy to burn off after the car ride. They were so excited to see the beautiful trees along the approach to the house, which we later found out were six hundred year old chestnut trees.



We had found Stourhead in the National Trust Ipad App, a very useful resource, and the kids had been keen to come for "winter warmers - board games in the entrance hall". Many National Trust properties close their houses over the winter whilst leaving the gardens open to visit but Stourhead keeps its entrance hall open with a roaring fire and you guessed it, board games and more dress ups.

We had the three National Trust volunteers to ourselves which was a great way to get advice on were to go but also to chat with these very well informed and enthusiastic people. It was very interesting to peek through into the next room, which had been packed up for winter with all the furniture and rugs kept under covers. In all honesty we were not disappointed at not being able to see more as it really was time for an outdoor day, the kids preferred to get out into the gardens rather than carry on the board games.

 

Stourhead gardens are such a delight, and while it is near to impossible to get the kids to come for a bush walk at home, once let loose in these gardens we could have spent a whole day without any complaint. Julian has spent many of our sightseeing days in Paris and London complaining to be picked up, but as Rob sagely pointed out he was having no problem walking today.

 

We found wonderful things as we explored such as ice houses for storing ice cream in the days before refrigeration, temples designed to a Roman style, a huge lake, bridges, and paths leading through beautiful trees. Rather than feeling like a formally laid out garden this was a glorious wilderness, with every tree, chair and building carefully planned to look as if it occurred by nature rather than by design.

We played our usual game of hide and seek and then Rob and Julian decided they couldn't resist trying a few handstands on the lovely lawn. We loved seeing the beautiful Snow Drops in bloom we were careful not to go off the paths after this so we didn't step on these beautiful babies.

 

When we arrived we had been warned that the usual walk people take, two miles around the lake and past the temples, was closed half way for maintenance. It was suggested we walk halfway and then come back and then go the other direction and return again.  We didn't think the weather looked safe enough for a four mile walk, not the mention the fact there is no way any of us wished to walk so far, so we took the abridged version which still allowed us to see all the sights from a distance and ended by passing a pub we had read about on Trip Advisor which we wanted to visit for lunch.

 

As it happened the weather stayed dry until the last five minutes and with our wet weather gear on it caused more fun than any problems when the heavens opened at the end of our walk. Though I will admit to being glad that we were within sight of the exit as the map I was carrying disintegrated in the drenching rain. 

The Spread Eagle Inn was a welcome sight and proved to be a wonderful find serving the very best lunch we have had in England. We all ordered the Sunday Roast, a delicious pork loin served with apple sauce and lots of lovely fresh vegetables. Rob enjoyed trying the local beer and I had a lovely pear and apple cider which went perfectly with the pork. Despite the fact that we had eaten enough to feed an army we couldn't help but order desert, encouraged by the quality of the superb main course. And so while the kids enjoyed ice cream and sorbet Rob has a decadent chocolate brownie and I had the most enormous serving of apple crumble and custard that words can not describe.

Now that's what I call a kids meal!

 Our lunch was so good that we asked to see the B&B rooms they have on offer with the plan to come back in the spring to see the place again, and of course to again sample their food. The rooms were lovely but after spending this weekend sharing a small room with the kids we are keen to stick with holiday homes with a separate bedroom for the kids so we don't get woken at the crack of dawn.

 

The trip home from Stourhead took only about a hour and a half, the highlight being seeing a group of kids ready to tackle the steepest zigzag road I've seen riding in their home made billy carts. I would have loved to see if they made down the hill but we wanted to be home before dark and the kids had school the next day. I do hope to come back to Stourhead but having consulted my diary there are few weekends left for overnight visits and there are so many terrific places to see. And this is where I have to ask you the reader if you have any suggestions for must see day trips and weekends away while we are living near Bournemouth. I look forward to hearing any suggestions you may have. Until next time it's goodbye from us and I hope you're enjoying the journey and Happy Australia Day to everyone.

(Day of visit to Stourhead 26 January 2014)