Experiences and Education: Dordogne Part II Caves and a Visit to Rocamadour

“Experience, travel - these are as education in themselves”

 - Euripides

Home schooling has been such a delight in France. We began with Julius Caesar and Vercingetorix in Provence, talked about the barbarian invasions and the fall of the Roman empire on the train as we passed through Narbonne, former Roman regional capital, and arriving in Dordogne we met Eleanor of Aquitaine and the Age of Faith. But then we took a great leap back in time as we visited pre historic France.

Part II of our travels in the Dordogne took us underground to visit the caves. Underground the Dordogne looks like a swiss cheese and even above ground there are many caves in rocky outcrops. We were able to talk about how handy these cave would have been for hiding from the invading ostrogoths, huns and viking (or vampires if you ask Emma). But our early ancestors used these rocky outcrops, or cro-magnon, as their homes and even for other special uses that can never be fully appreciated.

In 1940 four teenagers and their dog stumbled across a cave, near the town of Montignac. What they found was a complex of caves, known as Lascaux, loaded with stone age cave paintings. They were so excited that they swore they would never tell anyone what they found. They were able to keep their secret for whole three days, a fact which impressed the kids who didn't think they could last that long.

After this obviously word got out and in 1963 the cave was closed as the paintings were becoming damaged due to the presence of so many visitors who insisted on breathing and therefore introduced moisture and carbon dioxide into the cave. So what we visited was an amazing replica of the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery, known as Lascaux II. We really enjoyed our visit and the excellent commentary provided by our guide. We could not take photos of course so here is Emma's version of Lascaux to get an idea.

In the original cave there was no evidence that people ever lived inside so the guide speculated that it may have been a place a worship. In fact every man and his dog appears to have their own interpretation of the paintings, from star charts, to hunting success scenes, to hallucinations caused  by sensory deprivation. Whatever the reason our ancestors painted these pictures over 17000 years ago the fact remains that they are very beautiful and obviously they went to great pains to create their art. In total the original cave contains two thousand figures including nine hundred animal images. The use of perspective is quite amazing and we could not decide on a favourite amongst the amazing horses, stags and bulls.

We initially planned not to visit any more caves, we have seen a few at home in Western Australia and the kids weren't keen to see more on this trip. Then of course when we were faced with a rainy day and our plans to canoe with our new friends in the caravan park were put off and they mentioned caving, suddenly the kids were super enthusiastic to go caving.

It a good thing too because it meant a visit into the neighbouring Lot department and an excuse to visit Rocamadour without complaints about a long car drive as the kids were keen to catch up with their friends who had gone a few hours ahead of us.

 

The cave we visited, Gouffre de Padirac is a fantastic day trip with kids. Travelling the week before school finished meant skipping the long queues and before we knew it we faced the choice of taking the stairs or the lift down through the huge hole and down into the ground.

We took the stairs down and it was very easy and lots of fun. Once inside we were unable to take photographs, though of course like most tourist attractions they offered to take photos of us for 9eur each. Once we reached the bottom we found a second short queue before boarding a boat, upon which we travelled through the cavern while our friendly boatman punted us along.

There were fewer stalagmites and stalactites than at the caves at home but these caverns were very high and the presence of water made them spectacular. After our boat ride we then walked with a different guide, the kids raced ahead and we lagged behind and I must admit to missing most of the commentary but it did make for a lovely relaxing afternoon.

We returned  to the top after a trip in the boat and lift, at least for me while the kids raced up the stairs and had to wait "ages" for me in the gift shop. After saying goodbye to our friends we relaxed awhile in the park opposite so that Julian could play on the playground and then began our pilgrimage to Rocamadour.

Our first sight of Rocamadour was thrilling to me, less thrilling to hungry kids who didn't hop out of the car to have a look but waited until later ("I'm tired mum I'll just look at your photos" hmmm).

Our visit to Rocamadour began from above, as the city is on three levels, fort, church and town. We had skipped the ramparts of the fort at the very top as it was already quite late. We opted to walk down to the church and town so that we could visit the caves used by hermits in the dark ages who wanted to worship God away from the world and also to hid from barbarian invaders when necessary. 

Along the way there are shrines marking the stations of the cross, which of course the children fully expected me to be able to explain, despite being in French, which I cannot read, and despite me not being Catholic. Needless to say it was quite tricky until I decided to get "creative" when faced with hearing "but what do you mean" from Julian for the hundredth time. 

 After passing through the gates we arrived into the religious part of the town which is all built into the rock face. The church and its adjoining chapel a very special places, both beautiful and simple as well as very peaceful.

I forgot to look out for one of the pilgrim drawcards, Durandel, the sword of the great warrior Roland, which it was claimed was taken from the hands of the dying Roland by the Archangel Michael, as he faced defeat by the Saracens in the far away Pyrenees, who threw the sword and it flew all the way to Rocamadour where it imbedded in the stone. 

Rocamadour was a pilgrimage destination from the age of faith and many famous people have climbed the 216 steps on their knees or even shackled in chains. Even after dinner and well after their usual bedtime the kids were impressed by the knowledge that King Henry II of England, second husband of Eleanor of Aquitaine, had made this pilgrimage to visit the Black Virgin of Rocamadour. Still it was quite a wearying climb after a long day. We were grateful not to have to stop a say and rosary on each step in the manner of the pilgrims.

 Needless to say we arrived home late that night, which is easy to do when it is light for so very long. But a word of advice to those planning to travel with kids who are not used to sunlight in the evening, stick to your usual bedtime, unless your lucky enough to have kids who will nap, our don't and too many late nights equals extra grumpy days.