Plitvička Jezera Croatia's Splendid Jewel

“I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.” – Lillian Smith

Croatia is a land of contrasting beauty and Plitvička jezera, the Plitvice Lakes, must take the crown. Here Mother Nature in all her glory has prepared the most awe inspiring canvas and created a place that feels both magical and sacred.

Though we always intended to visit Plitvice during our time in Croatia it came about earlier than anticipated. Rob's mother was taking a cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest with her bother and sister in law before coming to meet us in Croatia. However her companions were unable to go at the last minute and she suggested that we meet her in Budapest.

In keeping with our slow travel objectives, to never rush from place to place without really having time to savour the experience, we decided to travel up through Croatia and spend a eight days visit Plitvice and family in Istria before journeying to Budapest.

As we journeyed by car the rocky splendour and stunning beaches and coves of the Dalmatian coast gave way to the mountainous heart and lowlands of the interior and finally to the idyllic forests of the Plitvička Jezera national park. We were amazed that the scenery could be so constantly changing during a journey that lasted only four hours.

For many people a visit to Plitvice comes about as a side trip on the way to or from somewhere else. We came with one night booked but with the plan of extending it if the weather held out. We were so very lucky that we arrived on a sunny day which the attendant on the gate told us had been very rare this year.

We had chosen to stay at the Hotel Jezera as the southern entrance to the park is right in their backyard, giving us as much time as possible to explore and to make sure that we could save our energy for the trails.

There are a number of paths suggested to visitors and on our first afternoon we choose path F through the lower lakes, an estimated three or four hour trip. While that may, or may not, sound like a marathon effort to some, and it did to me before we started, quite a bit of this time was taken up with ferry rides and photo opportunities.

The walk itself was very easy even to someone as unfit and exhausted as I have been. I also think that the beauty and serenity of the place gives you that extra lift.

And so the journey began with a ferry ride from ferry stop one to stop two and then a quick change on the jetty before the ride to stop three. At this stage we were thinking "this is quite lovely and peaceful"  but the jaw dropping part of the journey is still to come (mind you I have skipped this early part in my photos).

We were pleased to find that ferry station three had an ice creams for added energy before we began our walk. We were thrilled to hear that there are bears living in the forest, though of course we weren't hoping to bump into one, and I guess the tourist numbers keep them far away.

We expected the boardwalks by the lakes to be swamped with tourists but beginning our trip at about 2:30 we were never overcrowded nor concerned about being knocked into a very chilly lake.

We did not have to walk to far before the WOW factor kicked in.."wow mum look at the waterfall".. "wow mum I can see a cave"..."oh wow look at the colour of the water". My camera got a workout and even after savagely deleting scores of them today, I have over a hundred that I just have to keep.

As we made our way through the limestone canyon noting that we have seen many karst landscapes on our journey, from the karst plateau of the Burren in County Clare in Ireland to the Gouffre de Padirac in Lot department of France.

The kids were less interested in hearing about how acidic water eats away at limestone and other minerals to create the landscape and were much more interested in running off to explore the caves and wonder if cavemen used it as a lounge room or perhaps a studio apartment.

Back on the boardwalks we continued along until suddenly we had jaw dropping views of waterfalls above and below us. Just around the corner we arrived at the Great Waterfall and found crowds of people taking all sorts of goofy photos, and so of course we joined in wholeheartedly.

From the Great Waterfall the path wends its way up through the hill, providing lovely views of the lakes and waterfall below, arriving finally at the "train" station to await our ride back the beginning. The train is more like a long serious of buses joined together and pulled along the road between the two park entrances.

This part of the journey is so close to the end, and the northern entrance to the park, that I would suggest that people who have only an hour to spare for Plitvice (I shudder to think what a shame this would be but it do happen) should make sure that they visit the Great Waterfall.

 Rob on the other hand feels that he enjoyed the views more on our journey through the upper lakes on x"E" path the next day. I'm not sure if this was for the lake and waterfalls themselves or the fact that he perhaps the torrential rain made them far more spectacular than usual.

After lovely sunshine in Makarska we packed for two weeks of summer and so our raincoats were left at home with our warm clothes and shoes. When we woke in the morning and looked out at the deluge of water falling from the sky we decided to buy those ponchos that look like huge plastic bags.

So our plans to stay "forever and ever" quickly turned to "lets check out the upper lakes this morning and get back in the car and head off to Poreč" where we knew the welcome would be warm even if the weather was not. 

We had a ball splashing around in the rain while we followed the paths and boardwalks through the beautiful lakes whilst turning into ice cubes. I am very glad we had Emma's camera which you can use underwater as we were absolutely drenched.

This did not stop the bus tours coming through and I felt bad for these people who did not get to see the lakes in all their glory on a sunny day but we didn't hear any complaints.

Rob could be right about this trail as it really was stunningly beautiful from the very beginning. As we walked the path we journeyed from one lake to another, little and big, and crossed boardwalks through pools of water with lovely waterfalls thundering around us.

I must admit that we took a short cut and only stayed out in the rain about two hours but it really was a fantastic morning and I really enjoyed the hot drink at the cafe at the train station at the end of the trail.

And so we saw no bears, except sadly stuffed behind glass at the hotel and also on the menu at a restaurant in a town nearby, but we really did see the very best of natures splendour in Croatia.

I would be hard pressed to chose any place in the world more scenic, though Karajini National Park in Western Australia would come closest, though I am probably biased.

And so we were back on the road, off on our next adventure, visiting the beautiful Istrian Peninsula and our beautiful family there.