Scottish Highland Adventure: Traveling the Awe Inspiring Inverness to Skye Loop in Two Days and One Night

Speed, bonnie boat, like a bird on the wing,
Onward! the sailors cry;
Carry the lad that's born to be King
Over the sea to Skye.

Loud the winds howl, loud the waves roar,
Thunderclouds rend the air;
Baffled, our foes stand by the shore,
Follow they will not dare.

Though the waves leap, so soft shall ye sleep,
Ocean's a royal bed.
Rocked in the deep, Flora shall keep
Watch by your weary head.

Many's the lad fought on that day,
Well the Claymore could wield,
When the night came, silently lay
Dead in Culloden's field.

Burned are their homes, exile and death
Scatter the loyal men;
Yet ere the sword cool in the sheath
Charlie will come again. - The Skye Boat Song

Having so enjoyed our stay in a National Trust cottage in Cornwall we decided to rent a National Trust of Scotland cottage for our May half term break. We chose a lovely cottage in Morayshire, with the plan of a week of taking life very easy. But the wish list for our Scottish stay was topped by a trip on the Jacobite train, billed as the world’s most scenic train journey and this was a long way from Morayshire. We solved this by adding two extra days to our holiday, two very busy days indeed.

Step one: Loch Ness

We were collect by our taxi driver, James from Inverness and Highland Private Hire, who drove us the sixty odd miles from Inverness to Fort William.

We had intended to hire a car to make this journey but one way car hire involved a minimum four night’s rental and sixty pound penalty. The next option was the bus, but the idea of having the kids and our luggage at the bus station at six thirty in the morning was a bit of a nightmare, so was the thought of having no other option should we miss that early bus. And so the taxi option it was, and with four people it turned out to be quite economical after all.

James entertained us with very interesting conversation and commentary on our journey which took in the length of Loch Ness.

The kids search hard for Nessie, with no luck I’m sorry to say while James, Rob and I discussed the pros and cons of Scottish independence.

We caught a quick glimpse of Urquhart Castle, at perhaps the most scenic part of the Loch. James told us that as beautiful as the scenery is now in the spring, with the lovely new foliage and the bluebells carpeting the woods, he finds the autumn colours the most dramatic and beautiful. We can only imagine this having never seen an autumn outside of Australia.

Our drive took less than two hours and was really enjoyable. We had terrific views of the mountains and when we compared notes later Rob and I agreed that we had both expected to see at any moment kilted highlanders daubed in blue woad, à la Braveheart, running out of the hills roaring battle cries with Mel Gibson in the lead.

Step Two: The Jacobite Train Journey

When we arrived at the station a little over an hour and a half after leaving Inverness there waiting for us, billowing smoke, was the glorious Jacobite steam train.

After stowing our baggage above our seats we were free to jump back off the train and go and visit the engine, which Julian decided was Thomas the Tank Engine. For Emma and I, of course, it was the Hogwarts Express.

We were so lucky, having the opportunity to climb into the cabin to see the coal store and the fiery furnace which was quite an experience.

Having booked the tickets a long time in advance I was hoping for tickets on the left hand side of the train, but no option for this is offered and we were not in luck today. The view from our side was nothing special, while the right hand side had the most amazing views. All these photos where taken through the window in the left hand side door.

From time to time I would wander down to the end of the carriage to look out of the left hand side windows. We "righties" took it in turns to take photos out the window and took offence to a young man who arrived just prior to the Glenfinnan Viaduct and plonked himself on the floor with no intention to move.

 I must admit that just before it was too late for anyone else to see this famous Harry Potter site I told him this was not on and encouraged a lovely Polish lady, I had previously been sharing the window and chatting with, to step in and take her photo and I did the same. I’m sure that this spoiled his perfect video but fairs fair I’m afraid and my quick peek was just long enough for the perfect photo.

We stopped for twenty minutes at Glenfinnan, giving people time to visit the museum and shops but someone found a very good broomstick and having taking our flying lessons at Alnwick Castle last month we were able to coach the other travellers in the art of flying on a broomstick and much hilarity ensued.

While it was a wonderful train journey the view would be just as good on the regular train but the steam train made it very special for the children. As we chuffed along we would see people stopped along the path to take photos of the train and we waved like mad at them.

As we came closer to Mallaig we reached the coast and had some lovely views of the sea and after just over two hours after we head off from Fort William we arrived at Mallaig.

Step Three: Over the Sea to Skye

We had just enough time in Mallaig for a quick and delicious fish and chips lunch before catching the ferry over to Skye. The journey was very scenic, very windy outside on the deck and thankfully after such a long travel day it was also quite a short journey. The was enough time for singing “The Skye Boat Song” through a few times before the kids went to wander about on the deck with Rob while I enjoyed the views and the warmth inside.

The lovely lady from Kyle Car Hire was waiting at the docks at Armadale with our tiny little hire car. We set out for Broadford where we spent out one night in Skye, a journey of only half an hour made shorter and much more fun singing along to kids music. I am really proud of the kids and the way they have coped so well with so much travel and change.

Arriving at the Dunollie Hotel, which was nothing flash but perfectly good enough for overnight, we decided that despite being on the go for over seven hours we should head out again to let the kids burn off some energy. Also it was our only day to explore Skye and we would get to see very little so we best make the most of it.

The little we saw of Skye reminded me of Connemara in Ireland, with bald mountains, mores, shaggy sheep with most scenes rendered more beautiful by including water, either the sea or waterfalls running off the sides of the hills.

Our lovely windy car journey took us along the coast and up to the Old Man of Storr, a stunning rocky outcrop as tall as eleven double-decker buses. In a number of places on Syke we have noticed areas of tree plantations that have be stripped and left hillsides looking decimated. We had to walk past one of these ruined hillsides on our hike to visit the Old Man.

 While it was very cold and blustery it was lovely to get off our bottoms and be outside in the fresh air. As we hiked up the hill we came closer and closer to the swirling clouds which were looking increasingly threatening.

In the end we abandoned the idea of reaching the top as our fingers were turning blue and Julian had decided enough was enough and announced he was heading down and we had no choice but to follow.

It was a good thing that we left when we did, as when we arrived in the very pretty coastal village of Portree there was barely a table to be had for dinner. As we had eaten a big lunch we all happy with choosing an entrée, all lovely local dishes such as mussels, smoked salmon and Cullen Skink, except for Julian who with eyes bigger than stomach ordered a main sized stew. Our entrees were so generous in size that it was difficult to help finish Julian’s off.

 If we are lucky enough to return to Skye one day I would like to spend a minimum of three days and from what little we did see I would stay in Portree with its lovely painted houses and boats on the harbour.

On waking the next morning the kids were very keen to head down to our breakfast. They cannot get enough of breakfast buffets even though after all this time we have yet to see one that adds anything new or different. It is wonderful research for our bed and breakfast business when we return home. The best part of breakfast was the lovely view from the window, across the water to the main land, though the kids would tell you it was the walk on the sea wall that they enjoyed the most..

Step Four: Across the Skye Bridge to Eileen Donan Castle

Eilean Donan castle is a not to be missed visit in Scotland and luckily it only took a short drive over the Skye Bridge to reach. This iconic castle looks out over the sea lochs and over to Skye. Even if we had not crossed the causeway to visit the castle, simply watching the tide play around the castles base, listening to the piper busking on the shore and watching the scenery change with the light as the morning clouds gave way to lovely periods of sunshine would have been enough.

Inside the castle the kids especially liked seeing the green slimy well that can be seen from the ramparts. It was another good example that living in a castle did not necessarily mean living in comfort and luxury. We imagined it would be very cold inside these stone walls in winter, and without more than arrow slit windows it would have been smoky and dark in the medieval times. Now these arrow slits have largely given way to windows providing beautiful views.

The Lairds of Eilean Donan were constantly waging war on someone, whether it was the Vikings, other Scots or the English. Sadly this Jacobite stronghold was blown up in the uprising and lay in ruin for a couple of centuries until it was lovingly restored.

Step Five: Kyle of Lochalsch to Inverness by train

 The next stage of our journey was a short drive to Kyle of Lochalsch to catch the train to Inverness. I cannot be sure if was because being on the correct side of the train (the left side) to see the stunning views but Rob and I think that this journey is perhaps more beautiful than the Fort William to Mallaig line.

Travelling up and along the coastline the train line stops at Plockton and Stromeferry passing stunning scenery. Rather than attempting to describe it I will let these pictures speak for themselves.

The kids entertained themselves very well, with audiobooks, reading and drawing and looking out the window while I sat looking transfixed out the window and attempting to take photographs. I have noticed that every time I attempt a photo from a moving car or train the same tree, or perhaps not, jumps in the way at the wrong moment. I can’t tell you how many photos of this tree I have deleted.

Arriving at Inverness this leg of our journey came to an end and we looked forward to a week of relaxing in Morayshire. My advice to anyone planning to visit Scotland that this looping journey, which for us was much too short and really only just a taster, must top your Scotland to do list.